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How to Buy a
Fitted Suit
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The “less is more”
philosophy has finally permeated men’s fashion. Today’s most
fashion-savvy gents are showing more cuff at the sleeve and more
ankle with the pant; they call it the fitted men's suit. It’s a
sleek, streamlined ensemble with two unique details: 1) a
slimmer fit, especially in the shoulders; and 2) shorter
hemlines (as mentioned above).
With its fast-paced appeal, the fitted suit defies traditional
rules; yet, these suits are available right off the rack. That’s
why, to help indoctrinate the masses on buying a suit of this
kind,
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we’ve compiled these
foundational tenets on how to purchase one based on body type. |
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Wear Light Weight
Fabrics:
A man with a fuller
frame, be it from added time at the gym or the buffet, should
find a fitted suit that’s slenderizing. Thankfully, given that
it’s a slimmer cut, you’re automatically behind the eight ball.
From the get-go, only focus on models made from lightweight
fabrics; suits built from bulkier textiles will only add weight,
compounding the problem. Let soft, worsted wools be your guide. |
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Use Dark
Colors:
While light
colors make the body seem fuller, dark colors have the opposite
effect.
As these darker colors are slimming, they will do wonders to lighten
the appearance of your frame, making you seem lighter on your feet.
As for specific colors, choices like black and dark navy are as
complementary as they are classy. |
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Make
it Solids or vertical stripes:
For guys with extra meat
on their bones, solids work best to create a sleek, slender visual.
While loud patterns will definitely work against you, there are
still options for finding a suit with added detailing. Since
vertical stripes elongate the frame, they are both appropriate and
chic. Big guys can also choose tiny, innocuous patterns for a bolder
look, but only if they proceed with caution. |
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Take
two on the jacket:
Added cushion on the
torso can mean a disproportionate look in the jacket. To ensure the
best-looking fit in the coat, remember that two buttons are optimal.
The two-button jacket is now the norm and designed to work for all
body types. As an industry standard, it won’t draw attention to your
bulky frame, like the modish impact of a one-button jacket or the
slimming effect of a three-button piece. |
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Stay
single on the vent:
While it’s doubles on
the buttons, bulky guys must keep the inverse in mind on the vent;
specifically, avoid double-vented jackets. Vents, which are the
slits at the back of the jacket, allow more movement. They also
attract the eye, so huskier guys may not want to accentuate their
backside. Instead, go for a single-vent jacket, which will give you
the extra room you need minus the extra attention. |
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The Tall and Skinny
Man- Add weight with
heavier fabrics:
On a tall, skinny guy,
lightweight fabrics will hang and make you look all the more frail.
Opting for heavier wools that hold their form is the smart decision;
suit constructed from this type of fabric will give you much-needed
proportion and the appearance of additional weight. Ask the salesmen
for tweed or a heavier weight worsted wool. |
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Stay with lighter
colors:
While the fabric should
be heavy, the color should be light. Lighter colors, thanks to their
visual powers, make things appear more bulky (in this case, you).
What’s more, since vertical stripes elongate and dark colors slim,
either will serve only make you look taller and skinnier. Choose a
suit that’s a lighter color -- such as gray -- and that has no
vertical stripes. |
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Err
on the side of the single vent:
With no junk in
the truck, tall, skinny men have two options for the vent: 1) no
vent; or 2) a single vent. Since jacket vents allow movement and
create visual appeal, they give features to the jacket that skinny
fellows don’t necessarily need. Sticking with a single-vent or vent
less jacket produces a modest, fuller look in the rear. |
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Buy
pants with a regular rise:
Tall guys have long
legs, so their pants shouldn’t make them seem any taller. The best
way to prevent seeming any taller than you are is to ensure the
pants have a longer rise; the rise of the pants, which is the
distance from the waistband to the crotch, helps establish the
proportions between the body and the legs. That’s why a regular rise
will bring balance and symmetry to your already long legs and torso.
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Find
The Right Fit:
Trends in men’s suits
include sharp lines, close tailoring and shorter hems. Yes, the
fitted suit offers guys an updated, sophisticated take on a look
that’s traditionally left unaltered. And now that the fitted suit
has emerged on the scene, guys willing to take a risk should embrace
these trends and demonstrate their fashion-savvy skills. |
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